Our roving reporter Mark Anderson was a guest at the River Resturant at the City Centre Lowry Hotel as it revealed its all-new seasonal menu last week and he loved it
It was a delight to be part of the unveiling of the new autumn/winter menu at The River Restaurant, located within Manchester’s 5-star Lowry Hotel overlooking the River Irwell.
The menu indulges in sophisticated French dishes with a modern global twist and is curated by Executive Head Chef Bartosz Szynaka, who delivers traditional culinary techniques paired with innovative international flavour pairing.
It’s a great example of these different blends of old-meets-new culinary flair that awards The River Restaurant its prestigious two AA Rosette status. Commenting on the new menu, Szynaka said “Our autumn/winter menu places a real focus on using the very best quality seasonal ingredients to produce standout, high quality dishes.”
The starters showcased plenty of earthy root vegetables with a choice of four.
STARTERS. Our choice:
Flambéed tender pork cheek, roasted and layered into a celeriac millefeuille, presented in a clear turnip and apple broth. The pork was exquisitely cooked, served in a very light broth with the slightest flavours from the turnip & apple.
Mushroom forrestier. Foraged wild mushrooms, served with Gruyere, Black garlic with a side of Brioche.
The flavours reflected the earthiness of the mushroom, but wasn’t presented as you would normally receive a brioche. The mushrooms came more as a thick soup with the brioche presented separately on a side plate.
The Carabiniero which uses the finest Mediterranean prawns for a sweet and salty dish, served with charred Carabiniero, almond espuma, bonito glass, nori dust, and sea fennel tempura.
Chicken Rillettes, delicately cooked in chamomile butter, fresh brunoise kohlrabi, and swede tossed in green oil with chives.
MAINS. Our choice:
Fillet of Icelandic Cod, Black Cabbage, Tempura Crumb, Smoked Chickpea.
The Icelandic cod came on a bed of smoked crushed chickpea, accompanied with a very fresh tasting black cabbage, and sprinkled with the crispy tempura Crumb. The light smokiness of the chickpea was perfect and didn’t overpower the lightness of the cod and the tempura crumb added a crispness to the softness of the cod & chickpea.
Dry Aged British Duck Breast, Shiitake, Quince, Jerusalem artichoke.
The elegantly showcased Duck Breast main came perfectly cooked with that slight redness to the meat. With the addition of the Shiitake it gave that umami for the perfect warming dish, accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke, pickled shiitake, shiitake crisps, and ketchup, a very tasty dish ensuring a memorable dining experience.
The mouth-watering mains also included Scottish venison loin garnished with baby leek, aubergine purée, and torched butternut squash layers.
For vegans and vegetarians, the vibrant Beetroot Bourguignon looks a standout choice. Featuring tender baby beet, sweet carrots, and a silky-smooth pomes purée,
Roscoff Onion Tart Gorgonzola, Pine nut, Pear, Merlot. This dish offers a delightful twist; its creamy flavours and vibrancy make it both appealing and satisfyingly hearty.
DESSERTS. Our choice:
Brillat Savarin Cheesecake, Passion fruit, White Chocolate, Orange accompanied by a Chantilly cream. Very easy to eat giving light flavours
Valrhona Manjari Chocolate, Espresso Crème Brûlée, Malted Milk, Cocoa. For chocolate lovers this is an excellent choice if I may say so. The dessert came in the shape of a mushroom but in two parts. The head contained a velvety espresso crème brûlée and was complemented by smooth notes of malted milk mousse in the bottom half.
Additional to our choice Guests can conclude their meal with an array of other decadent desserts. Highlights include the irresistibly moist Sticky Date Cake, delicately infused with banana rum and crowned with a crisp brandy snap for a satisfying crunch. Vacherin William Pear, Blackcurrant, Violet and Almond Sponge
Croustade of Apple Caramel, Chenin Blanc, Vanilla
Each dessert is thoughtfully crafted to offer a sweet, indulgent finish to an exceptional dining experience.
For those opting for a savoury finish, a curated assortment of British and French cheeses is available, served with chutney and artisan sourdough crackers.
The River Restaurant attention to detail is very impressive. The layout, seating and service from the staff ensured anything we needed was available and the table setting was exceptional with a lot of thought gone into its presentation.
I look forward to a return visit where I can sample some of the other delicious sounding dishes on offer.
